I can’t quite remember when my love for Paris began but it was certainly before I actually ever visited the City of Light. It may have stemmed from frequenting French restaurants here in Vancouver when I was young or perhaps it was watching the movie “Le Divorce” (one you probably haven’t heard of and for good reason). But something sparked in me the urge to visit this city and I was lucky enough to do so for the first time when I was 16. Three years later I returned again, and again a year after that. That third time was a 3 month stint, in-between university degrees. I hadn’t returned until last May, 11 years later. It was as magical as I remembered and I was lucky enough to return again in October. And I’m even luckier that I will be going again at the end of April. I accumulated many favourites during my two short trips last year and have a running list of places to visit for this upcoming visit. I am of course no expert on the city but I do pretty thorough research when I travel (especially regarding food) and so I stand by my favourites!
Restaurants
Chez Denise – very French and very classic. The menu is written up on chalkboards and you will have to do your very best to order in French. Located near Chatelet Les Halles.
Le Relais de l’Entrecote – They only serve one thing here: steak frites (and it’s either medium or medium rare – no other options). It’s quite the experience and one I’ll never forget. Be sure to save room for dessert. There are a couple locations.
Au Pied de Cochon – while the food may not be anything to write home about, the experience is what makes it a favourite. Open 24/7 and known for their soupe à l’oignon. They also give you pig-shaped meringues with your bill – oink.
Chez Paul – another classic bistro with a great atmosphere. In the Bastille neighbourhood. Apparently Marvelous Mrs. Maisel was filmed here.
Frenchie – On one of the sweetest little streets in the 2nd arrondissement (right by Rue Montorgueil), are four Frenchie establishments: a wine bar, a Michelin-star restaurant, a sandwich bar and a wine shop. I’ve only been to the wine bar but I can’t wait to revisit this street and try out the other Frenchie spots.
Cafés and Bars
Les Philosophes – a favourite in the Marais for a glass of wine or aperitif. Sit outside for some incredible people-watching (so much good streetstyle to goggle at).
Café le Nemours – in the 1st arrondissement and close to the Louvre, another great place to park yourself with a drink and just people watch.
Deux Magots and Café de Flore – hardly original but classic nonetheless. Pick between the two (they’re beside each other) and enjoy a chocolate chaud and feast your eyes on the Boulevard St Germain. (If your a skincare junkie be sure to cross the street to visit CityPharma – more in the Shops section below.)
Boulangeries, Patisseries and Chocolateries
Du Pain et de Idées – the perfect excuse to visit Canal Saint Martin and indulge in chocolate and pistachio “escargots” (the pastry kind). Grab a couple and find yourself a bench along the canal.
Stohrer – the oldest patisserie in Paris and located on one of my favourite market streets, Rue Montorgueil.
Poilâne – you won’t read a Paris list that doesn’t include this boulangerie. Famous for their big boules of sourdough.
Pierre Hermé – the rival of Ladurée and in my opinion arguably better. The flavours are so intense and some are very inventive.
Aux Merveilleux de Fred – if you like meringue and whipped cream these little mounds are heaven.
Berthillon – there’s nothing like strolling through Île Saint-Louis with a cone of Berthillon. There are various shops on the “island” that sell Berthillon but best to experience it at the original establishment itself.
À La Mère de Famille – the oldest chocolaterie in Paris and indeed feels like stepping back in time. Their boxes make perfect gifts to bring back home.
Shops
La Trésorarie – beautiful homewares store for each room of the house. So many beautiful French linens. I bought a couple and they are in heavy rotation.
Merci – The French equivalent of Anthropologie. Everything from homewares to clothing to books. I could spend hours in there.
Sezane – Everyone’s favourite French clothing label as of late. Beautiful French classics, lots of pieces made in Europe and reasonable prices. I wish we didn’t have to pay duties when ordering online or my closet would be full of Sezane.
Astier de Villatte – the most charming boutique filled with their classic ceramics.
E. Dehillerin – Famed cookware store that’s fun to just walk around in. I might try and bring home a small sauce pan this trip.
Shakespeare and Company – Needs no introduction but is a delight to spend time in.
Mariage Frères – All things tea. Picked up some Paris Breakfast on my last trip and it’s the perfect way to transport myself back on a dreary winter day in Vancouver.
BHV – a department store that’s fun to walk around in. I love their home section.
CityPharma – the best place to stock up on all things French skincare and hair. Supposedly it has the best prices out of all the pharmacies. Is across from Deux Magots and Cafe de Flore, just off of Saint-Germain.
Parks, Museums and Streets
Musée Rodin – visited for the first time in October and completely fell in love. I can’t to return in the Spring and enjoy the gardens.
Musée de l’Orangerie – the perfect sized museum and has a room dedicated to Monet’s Water Lilies.
Musée d’Orsay – I haven’t been here since 2011 but it was always a favourite and a preference over the beast that is the Louvre.
Jardin du Luxembourg – a magical place. Be sure to grab a glass of rosé from the concession stand and a crepe from the stand that’s close to the sailing boat pond. Hot tip: order a buckwheat crepe with nutella (they’ll be confused but it’s delicious).
Jardin du Palais-Royale – I had never actually been here before which was odd but it’s such a lovely park to stroll through and of course take photos with the striped columns.
Place des Vosges – perhaps my favourite square in Paris, perfect for strolling through or sitting on a park bench with a baguette sandwich. There are several cafes lined around the square to pop into for a drink or hot chocolate.
Grande Mosquée de Paris – an oasis right in the city. Admire the beautiful tile work throughout the gardens and sit down for some mint tea in the cafe.
Rue Montorgueil – this is the street I “lived” on for 3 months back in 2011. It’s a lively market street filled with everyone you heart (and stomach) desires. Lots of cafes to pull up to and shops for picking up picnic essentials.
Pont Saint-Louis, Pont Neuf, Pont des Arts, Pont Alexandre III – I love crossing the bridges in Paris, pausing to watch Seine strollers down below or for watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle on the hour at night.
Place I can’t wait to check out this trip:
Bistro Paul Bert – a classic bistro that’s on many “must” lists I’ve come across.
La Fontaine de Mars – I don’t usually spend much time in the 7th but this place looks reason enough.
Miznon – I’ve frequented L’as du falafel many a visit but this rivalling falafel spot across the street is a new favourite of many.
Au Petit Fer à Cheval – just down from my favourite Les Philosophes, a supposedly great place to grab a drink.
Le Rubis, Juveniles, Le Garde Robe – David Lebovitz often talks about wine bars and these three are on his list.
Le Clown Bar – the interior looks gorgeous and I’ve heard many good things.
Carette – located in Place des Vosges and serves up some of the best hot chocolate, supposedly.
Marin Montagut – I recently picked up Marin’s book all about Paris’ oldest shops and I now must visit his whimsical store.
Puce Vanves – I didn’t have the time to visit a flea market these last two trips and so I’m hoping to make it to one this time! I may need to bring a larger suitcase…
